Urban Stomach

The Number 4 Combination Plate at Cordon Bleu

There are only two restaurants in San Francisco (well, three if you count Popeye’s) where I regularly order chicken as an entree. One is Zuni Cafe, where the Roast Chicken with Bread Salad is a longtime favorite. But you’re probably sick of hearing about Zuni’s chicken. The other is Cordon Bleu on California and Polk, next to the Lumiere Theater. Now, if you’re like most of my friends, you’re either thinking “Cordon Bleu? I haven’t been there in forever!” or “What’s Cordon Bleu?”. Everyone seems to have forgotten about this hole-in-the-wall or never knew about it in the first place. Include me in the crowd that forgets about it. Though I first ate here in 1985 and was a regular for a while when I was twentysomething, the only time that I’m reminded about Cordon Bleu is when my sister-in-law visits from New York. She lived in San Francisco for a year back in the mid ’90s and Cordon Bleu is on her “must eat” list every time she’s here. Maybe you have to leave town to appreciate this gem? Two recent visits are strongly imprinting Cordon Bleu back in my memory.

A counter with ten seats and two tables, one that is also used for food prep, make up this Vietnamese barbecue chicken shack in our old ‘hood (and four blocks from where I grew up). The Five Spiced Chicken Combo (Number 4) is, in my opinion, the thing to order here as it comes with 1/2 of a well-seasoned bird char-grilled right in front of your face. I’m of the mind that if I can see my food being cooked, it tastes better. Better yet, I’m pretty sure that the woman cooking my food is the same woman who was there back in ’85! The chicken skin is crispy and mostly burnt, how I like it. For the most part, the chicken remains moist though I encountered a few dry bites here and there. Not enough to bother me. Also, you get a heap of rice with a delicious, almost Bolognese-like, meat sauce unlike any I’ve ever tasted ladled on top (I like the sauce on my rice while Mrs. Stomach likes it on the side). It’s kind of a Vietnamese-Italian hybrid sauce. Finally, a scoop of “Country Salad” is balanced on the edge of the plate and its light, vinegary flavor and hefty crunch provide a refreshing contrast. Start with an order of Imperial Rolls, fresh fried. They’re not served with all of the accoutrements that you might find at The Slanted Door but, for $2.60 an order, I’m not complaining. The only other item that I’ve ever ordered here is the Shish Kebab and I don’t love it. The flavor is ok but the meat is so thin that it tends to get overcooked on the flames and, therefore, becomes tough.

If I can see the flames, it makes the food taste better.

In a city where restaurants and fads come and go, Cordon Bleu soldiers on, unconcerned with such trends but instead serving its mighty fine chicken at an impossibly high level of consistency day after day, night after night. Save a spot in your memory and drop by for a soul satisfying, cheap meal.

Cordon Bleu
1574 California St
(between Larkin St & Polk St)
San Francisco, CA 94109
(415) 673-5637
Tuesday-Saturday: 11:30 AM-10:00 PM, Sunday: 4:00PM-10:00PM
Number 4 Special (1/2 Five Spiced Chicken, Meat Sauce on Rice, Country Salad): $7.60
Imperial Roll: $2.60